Basilique de Fourvière / Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière - Lyon

Remember how, when we first came to Lyon Audrey thought there was a castle on top of the hill that overlooks the city - but really it is a Cathedral ...?
Well time to visit this lovely place that dominates the skyline in Lyon. 

Lillian: "The site was once a Roman forum and that is where the name comes from - an inversion of Vieux-Forum ... becomes Fourvière."

Audrey: "Oh! I thought perhaps it was because there are 4 towers ..."

Lillian: "But 'four' is an English word my dear.  Though apparently a local nick-name for the Cathedral is 'the up-side-down elephant' because those 4 towers look like elephant legs sticking up in the air."

 This photo was taken from the Saône River, one of the 4 towers is obscured and the older Chapelle de la Vierge is on the left with the egg shaped dome topped by a golden Virgin Mary - the statue on the Basilica is St Michael, slewing the dragon.  

Entry to the Basilica is from the other side.

Over the 3 arches are the 4 winged beings that represent the 4 Evangelists - 

the winged man / angel for Matthew

the winged lion for Mark

the winged bull for Luke

 

and the Eagle for John

 

 There is another winged lion sitting sphinx-like & protecting the entry - but I think this lion represents Lyon itself. 

Audrey: "The Basilique de Fourvière reminded me of Sacré-Cœur in Paris."
Lillian: "Yes, there are similarities.  Both are of white stone and are on hills over-looking their cities,  both cathedrals were built using private funds and both buildings were commenced in the 1870s following the Franco-Prussian war and the socialist Communes of Paris & Lyon.  When the Prussians were threatening to invade Lyon the people promised to build a big church dedicated to Mary if Lyon was spared.  But the Fourvière site and the Chapelle de la Vierge have previous history of being the place where the Lyonnaise offered thanks for surviving or escaping bad events.  In 1638 it was a disease that was affecting the children, in 1643 Lyon escaped an outbreak of the plague,  in 1832 they were spared an outbreak of cholera."
Audrey: "And there is a really big painting in the Basilica all about that."  

the "tableau d’Orsel" is huge

Looking at some of the allegorical painting by (André Jacques) Victor Orsel.  The Lion licking its wounds at Mary's feet represents Lyon, as does the lady in green - and Mary is protecting her with her blue cloak.   On (our) right are protective Saints, to our left there is Death with scull-face & scythe, a Canut (silk-worker) looking sad because of all the social upheavals & bad times then Cholera with yellow head-dress holding a cup of poison - only an angel has whacked that with his sword ... very allegorical indeed!

So now let's look at some more of the interior of this Cathedral - and be prepared to be overwhelmed!   Looking down the aisle towards the choir or apse ...

Looking at some of that decoration ...
and we should give some of the dates etc - building the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière was commenced in 1872 and it was consecrated on 16^th June 1896.

It was designed by Pierre Bossan and is a mix of Romanesque and Byzantine styles.

Audrey: "I think I can see the Byzantine influence."


Lillian: "There are a lot of birds in the decoration.  Plenty of Doves ...

but also ...

Phoenix?

Swan

Chicken with her babies (look at their little feet)

Pelican and babies

Lillian: "Did you know that the pelican is symbolic of self-sacrifice - in ancient times it was believed that pelicans would wound themselves and feed their babies with their own blood."
Audrey: "Oooo yuk!  But this cathedral is full of wings - not just on birds but on Angels too.   And lots of the angels had twice as many wings as normal.  Are you sure this isn't the Cathedral de FourWings?" 

Lillian: "Oh Audrey!   The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière has famous mosaics -
there are 6 large panels ...

and sorry about this being at a funny angle - our photo people were in a hurry - but we wanted to show this lovely interaction between Mary and her Child."

Audrey: "Perhaps that priest has frightened the little one and mum is having to reassure him.  This Cathedral is very feminine and maternal isn't it?"

Lillian: "You could be right there, though Joan of Arc wasn't known for being particularly nurturing ..."

Audrey: "So much glittery gold in the mosaic - but let's look to the left of those long trumpets ...



such wonderful outfits!" 

Lillian: "More glittering gold mosaic, and birds - and now we are looking into the Choir or Apse."

Detail of the dome ceiling - lots more wings!  

Lillian: "More Ceilings - and there are three cupolas which depict Mary united to the Holy Trinity: the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit ... 

the Son - note more angels with 4 wings

Holy Spirit (I think - though there is a dragon / serpent at Mary's feet)

Audrey: "Let's look down for a bit at the floor - also mosaic ...

Lillian: "And now that our necks have stopped aching, let's look at the windows - here is Saint Cecilia, patron saint of music ...

and from the 6 major windows in the Choir / Apse, they were designed by Georges Decôte - again representing aspects of The Virgin Mary ..."

 

 

Wonderful fish!

Lillian:  "Now we all got rather overwhelmed and confused by all that surface ornamentation and colour and glitter - and then we found ourselves in an area that was quite monochromatic.  Not sure which part of the cathedral this was but it was beautiful."

Audrey: "And there was another mother hen with her prancing chicks ... "

Lillian: "Time to go outside and rest our eyes somewhat."

Audrey: "That's the outside of the Choir / Apse - and more wings!"

Lillian: "Non-realistic on the outside - the small ones are pelicans, the larger are doves."







Audrey: "It was a wonderful view."

The modern tower on the left is the Radisson Hotel, the Saône River can be glimpsed just beyond the closest trees - the Rhone is at the horizontal row of trees further on.  And the patch of orange between the 2 heads is Place Bellecour.

Swinging to the left, we see the 2 rivers again with old Lyon and new Lyon beyond.

Some more details from the exterior  - more pelicans



The Angels on the outside are armed - though they don't look particularly dangerous!

A penny for your thoughts!

Lillian: "Me under a column and here I am on the stairs to the Chapelle de la Vierge

In 1852 the bell tower of that Chapel was crowned by a statue made in golden bronze

Alongside the Chapelle de la Vierge is another older building - and yes - that is St Thomas of Canterbury aka Thomas Becket
he spent about 6 years in France.






And here we are looking up at the St Michael statue on the Basilica - with a bit of a contrast  with one of the small towers that are part of the  Chapelle de la Vierge. 

Audrey: "Gosh that St Michael looks just like the one on the Sacré-Cœur in Paris - I wonder if this statue also stains the white stone to pretty green?"


Before we go and something we can't show you a photo of - but during our visit to the Basilique de Fourvière we were enchanted by Saori Yamaguchi practicing on the Grand Organ - preparing for a concert.  There is something quite wonderful about a grand pipe organ being played well in a cathedral with fabulous acoustics. 

And to end this long post - something very French from the exterior of the Basilique de Fourvière.  A lovely Iris - with Fleur de Lis ...

Lillian: "Clearly showing how one inspired the other!"

Auxerre - the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne - interior

The Rose & Lancet windows on the South Side

Lillian :  As promised, this post will be all about the inside of Auxerre's Cathédrale Saint-Étienne.
Audrey :  No photos of us dollies this time.  Let's start with some of the stained glass windows.

The Rose window on the North

Lillian :  Lots of blue & red glass in these windows depicting various biblical and saints' stories.

Lillian :  More blue around a rather grumpy looking Jesus surrounded by the animals & angel that represent the 4 evangelists - St Matthew / angel, St John / eagle, St Luke / bull & St Mark / lion.

Audrey :  Perhaps he is grumpy because the window needs some cleaning? 

Audrey :  This marvelous window shows Jeanne d'Arc (Joan of Arc) - it is not as old as the others and is signed "Ed. Socard ... Paris 1914"

Lillian :  According to Auxerre's Office of Tourism's web site  "Joan of Arc came through Auxerre on two occasions. The first time was on 27 February 1429 ... she stopped off in Auxerre to hear the mass at Saint-Etienne Cathedral and to pray. The second time was on 1 July 1429: the Auxerre residents refused to open up the town to King Charles VII and Joan of Arc who were walking to Reims. They only agreed to offer supplies in exchange for money. They had negotiated with the lord of Trimouille, in return for a sum of money, so as to remain neutral in the conflict between the King, the Burgundians and the English. "

Audrey :  Here is a close up of the angel - lots of lovely blues & pinks.

Audrey : With all of that wonderful coloured glass in the windows you get pools of coloured light on the floor & walls - like this...

Lillian : Such intense colour in the glass was expensive - the ruby red was made using gold (gold chloride)  the blue was cobalt ... this web site has a list for the colours in glass.

Lillian : Architecturally this Cathedral is quite lovely inside - here we look along the nave into the sanctuary.   Lovely & lofty with lots of vertical lines, high windows and vaulting.

Audrey : What sort of vault are they?  And did you notice that some are red, some white?

Lillian :  Groin vaults, sometimes called Cross vaults ...

Audrey :  Let's use the 2nd name.

Lillian : OK, here we are looking up into that decorated vault - I think this is where the Sanctuary, which was built in the early 1200s, and the later (1300s) Nave meet.

Audrey : What about this vaulting? 

 Lillian : Oh dear - we really need an expert on all this architecture - but I think that is probably Ribbed Vaulting, it is very elegant with the those thin pillars.  I also think some of the window on the RH side needs cleaning.

Audrey :  There are some really old, Romanesque, Frescoes, which were very difficult to photograph as they are quite faint - guess I would be too if I were so ancient.   The people all in a row are all wearing bishops' hats and have their names written underneath, the one in the middle is St Romanus - next to him, in the yellow is St Etherius, Bishop of Auxerre - and the seated bishop on the edge is named as St Agnarius (might be a strange spelling of Ignatius).

    

  Lillian :  Some more frescoes and usually a saint holding a lamb is St Agnes but that saint has a beard, perhaps he is John the Baptist but I don't know who the other person is.

 Audrey :  Hmmm, I like that nice pointy version of a Bishops' hat. 

Let's finish with some more random photos of the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne - things that caught our fancy, though we are not quite sure what they are all about!

Lillian :  This column top is a bit naughty - seems not everything in a Cathedral is high-minded and spiritual.

Audrey :  There were some ancient tomb-stones set into the floor and we liked this bit of carving - bones all tied up like a gift for a dog - or pirate!

And finally - this chap caught in a strong up-draft - or perhaps he was an early experimenter in the effects of electricity.